Many people visit Bhaktapur and only stop off at Durbar Square and take a few photos before returning to their car. However, this is a whole city. There are houses, workshops, shrines and courtyards all connected with narrow streets. Walking around will enable you to admire the intricately carved windows, offerings at shrines and elderly people sitting in front of temples. As it is a small old town, a leisurely walk should allow you to walk around all 4 main squares in 3-5 hours, depending on how many stops you make.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

This is the main square, the old royal palace of the city. It is a UNESCO heritage site and there are many sights to see. The 55-Window Palace is a highlight with its intricately carved wooden balcony. The Golden Gate is another stand-out building, with its beautiful golden metal work and tiered images of gods. This takes you closer to the royal Taleju temple.

Look out for the intricately carved stone Vatsala Durga temple. There are also many pairs of guardian statues, such as lions. Some parts of this square were damaged in the earthquake of 2015, so some of the monuments have been restored. This means that some areas will have scaffolding. However, it is a good place to take your time and save your energy for later. Often the less busy squares are the busiest and most lively.

Taumadhi Square

Head down the lane from Durbar Square and you will enter Taumadhi Square. This is a large open square and feels more lively and authentic. The Nyatapola temple is the main attraction. This 5 storey pagoda temple was built early 18th century. It sits atop a series of steps and stands tall above the square. There are many pairs of guardian statues, made of stone and getting stronger as you go up.

The Bhairabnath temple is located next to the Nyatapola temple. This temple is linked to one of the strongest protector gods in the city. During the Bisket Jatra festival in April, this is a very busy area with many chariots and processions. However, there are many terraces around the square with cafes making this a great place to stop for a cup of tea.

Pottery Square

This is one of the most unique places to visit on any heritage walk around Bhaktapur. Potters are working on their pottery, shaping the clay on wheels. The finished pieces are placed out to dry. This really does feel as though you are stepping back in time. There are small shops selling cups, lamps and ornamental pieces. Often the potters are more memorable than the monuments. If you would like a small souvenir, buy something small directly from the potter.

Dattatreya Square

This is the oldest square and the most peaceful. The main Dattatreya temple was said to be built using wood from a single tree. The square is also famous for the beautifully carved Peacock Window.

Take your time to explore the side streets. There are many woodcarving workshops, small courtyard and monasteries. This is the part of Bhaktapur that feels the least like a tourist spot.

Living Gods

Although there are many statues, Bhaktapur has ‘living gods’. Newars follow a mixture of Hindu and Buddhism beliefs. God’s are worshipped during festivals, processions and daily rituals. The most famous are the Kumari tradition. This involves worshipping a young girl as she is believed to be the embodiment of a goddess. The Kumari in Kathmandu is the most well-known however the whole Newar world (including Bhaktapur) have living goddess traditions.

You don’t necessarily need to see a Kumari to get a sense of this belief. Locals often touch their forehead to the shrine, light butter lamps and leave flowers and red powder on small stones. Be respectful and ask permission to take photos of any worshippers. Also don’t step on any offerings.